I've received a lot of questions, since my first posts about paper craft mask making, about if I was going to give or sell any mask patterns. I was hesitant to just give away my first pattern, but I did think of a solution! I finally got off my butt and started making a few patterns that I wouldn't mind other people using, if they'd like. Well, and broke RinRin could use the pocket money, this hobby is expensive!
I'm not expecting that a ton of people want these or anything anyway, since making your own mask isn't much cheaper than just buying one. This is primarily aimed at people who want to try making a kigurumi mask, but aren't confident in their sculpting abilities. I'm more than willing to answer any questions anyone has, and of course you're more than free to ask me about making computer models and creating a new pattern yourself. But, if you're looking for something you can print and work on right away, I've got two models so far and more on the way! Think of it as a DIY starter kit.
Anyway, here are the two models I'm referring to:
- Typical anime face shape
- Stronger nose bridge than my other works, so your real nose has room (You can always adjust to your liking during the finishing process)
- Approx. 11in in height.
- An unusually young face for chibi or doll-like characters
- Approx. 12in in height
I'm working on a "young adult male" model currently, I don't know if anyone would be interested, but the option will be there.
By the way, it only cost me about $5 to print both of these on card stock at the FedEx office. Much cheaper than a ton of clay! You can use my tutorial for help on surfacing these, or do whatever you want.
1. Send me an email at email@example.com titled "Paper Craft Pattern" or similar, and request which model you want.
2. I will email you back with my paypal address.
3. Send a payment of $15 USD, (Handle the paypal fees however you'd like) and I will email you the PDF file. That's it!
PLEASE DO -NOT-
1. Give away my patterns for free or upload them elsewhere on the internet.
2. Use my patterns as a base for a mask you are building with the intent to sell to another.
3. Duplicate a mask made from my patterns except for personal, non-commercial use.
I cannot enforce these rules, but I hope you will respect my effort and time. I reserve the right to refuse sale to any person for any reason.
1. I recommend starting from the nose and chin area when you put a pattern together. The nose and chin areas are easily spotted, as they are the most detailed portions of the pattern. Start from there and work outward, and you won't end up trying to glue these detailed areas in last. Believe me, it's a hassle!
2. Cut as accurately as possible, many small mistakes can turn into a big one.
3. Some flaps overlap. This is okay, just cut them apart evenly.
4. Some flaps will need to be cut much smaller than printed in order to fit with their adjacent edge.
5. If your head cannot fit into the model, cut away or ignore the outermost pieces. (notice the incomplete back of my photo of GNT) If you choose to create a mold and cast the model in resin, you can cut away the FRP so that it fits your head after the fact. It doesn't need to be wearable while you're working!
6. if you must cut away on GNT, take away from the skull and not the chin.
7. The under-jaw of CHB is too long by design. Please cut away until it fits to your liking.
8. If you feel necessary, use strips of scrap paper to reenforce some areas around the hole. The under-chin of GNT seems to flatten naturally, so you may need to stiffen it with extra paper so that it rests under your jaw properly. The chin-to-neck line at profile should not be too steep!
9. Make sure your model is not warped in any way when you apply fiberglass or any other hardening agent of choice. Otherwise, it will be stuck that way!
10. Due to an error in the model, you will not need the small piece labeled 218 when assembling CHB.
11. Uneven dashed lines mean mountain fold, evenly spaced dotted lines mean valley fold.